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Writers, artists and a duck dinner

Writers and artists around one table — an exchange of food culture.

About 3 min read · Updated 2026-10-09

Not a photograph of the dinner: the Quanjude Exhibition Hall’s model of the 1901 two-storey shop, with wax figures of the three men at a table, re-creating the scene. — Image: Quanjude Group · quanjude.com.cn

Writers and artists around one table — an exchange of food culture.

A table for three friends, 1950

In 1950 the writer Ba Jin travelled from Shanghai to Beijing for a meeting. The novelist and playwright Lao She, with Li Boshao, Zhao Shuli and other literary figures, invited him to dinner at Quanjude and asked the Peking-opera master Mei Lanfang to keep them company. The invitation note Lao She wrote is still in the China Modern Literature Museum — which is why we can say it happened. The friendship of the three men is remembered as a happy chapter of modern Chinese letters, and we have no reason to add to that.

A photographer in 1933

Another visitor left a picture rather than a note. In 1933 the German photographer Hedda Morrison ate at Quanjude and became so interested in its food culture that she photographed the kitchen. The image below is the photograph from that visit.

A cook at a Quanjude oven, 1933
Photograph by Hedda Morrison, 1933, as shared by Quanjude. · Hedda Morrison (1933) via Quanjude Group · quanjude.com.cn

Sources: 全聚德集团官网 — 历史故事